How To Create Invisible Layers With Zigzag Underlayering

Written by Jesse LinaresDec 16, 2019

Read time 5 min

“This is a technique for guests with longer hair that want a skinny debulked shape that lays close to the head…without seeing any layers,” explains Jesse Linares, Sam Villa ArTeam.

    • The top section is detached and does not get layered, so when it falls over the bottom section hair looks one-length with less bulk.
    • A sweet spot is determined for zigzag parting and hair is selectively added to the top to keep it longer and dropped to the bottom to be cut shorter. Strategically making decisions in accordance with     a design plan.
    • Elevate vertically straight up towards the ceiling to achieve shorter layers at the occipital while leaving length at the perimeter.
    • The shorter hair at the occipital creates the concavity at the nape for a slimmer shape.

“This approach creates empty channels in the underlayer allowing the hair from the top section to neatly fall into the negative space to debulk the silhouette,” explains Linares.

Linares advises to explain the strategy behind the technique to guests. The shorter layers can be unexpected and seem like the opposite of what they requested, knowing the “why” behind cutting them will help the guest become more comfortable with the idea and the benefit it delivers.
Photography: Courtesy of Sam Villa
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