Source: Courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel
As more and more colorists are going back to work and picking up their paintbrush, the onslaught of color correction is all too real. Bond Beauty Owner & L’Oréal Professionnel Artist Suzie Bond is no stranger to color correction, and the colormaster is here to help prepare you for the many scenarios you’re likely to come up against.
The most important thing before any service is to set client expectations. Perform the decolorization first, shampoo, then discuss with your client what they would like to do. In this moment, they will understand the current state of their hair.
Scenario: My Client Went Too Dark
The Fix: If my client is normally a 6N retouch and she came back looking like she used a 5N and it’s uneven, if my application is neat and clean, I can use her regular formula plus 20-vol up to the line that she created.
- While the retouch is on, mix up Sunkissed Lightening Oil* + 30-Vol developer and apply this formula to the color that she put on through the mid-lengths and ends. *Sunkissed Lightening Oil will only take the tinted hair up 1-level- but this is exactly what we want.
- Finish the processing time on the retouch color and check the Sunkissed effect (you will need to rub a bit off to see so you can leave it on longer if you’d like for a max of 35 minutes) then shampoo.
- Your canvas should all be the same level, just the wrong tone. Because this is a corrective situation, DIA Richesse is our friend. This is because we don’t know if the cuticle was opened or closed during the box dye process. Richesse is very forgiving, plus it will provide you with a longer term correction.
- If the hair still needs help, put on some DIA Light and follow up with a Powermix Treatment.
Scenario: Client Needs A More Severe Correction
The Fix: If the hair is darker than a 1-level difference, grab Effasol Color Remover instead of Sunkissed Lightening Oil since it will lift out the color deposit and reveal the underlying pigment. Their midlengths and ends might be a level 3-4 now, which is too dark and too saturated for Sunkissed to lift it enough. Effisol will clean the hair palette, process until desired underlying pigment is achieved and continue the coloring process.
Tip for Color Correction Only
Mix 1 packette of Effasol Color Remover with 2½ fl oz Majicrème developer on darker levels 1-6. On levels 7-9 mix with 2fl oz. warm water to remove color.
Scenario: Keeping My Blondes Blonde
The Fix: If they are a foil, focus on the areas that matter the most. Do a half head application. And don’t forget the back hairline for her ponytail, regardless of if they wear their hair up or not. This is where Multi-Techniques 8 Bonder Inside comes in. This is your chance to really protect the hair while painting or correcting.