Photography: Courtesy of Marie Nino (@mariedoescolor), Bianca Hillier (@biancacolour), and Min Kim (@minkimcolorist)
When Asian clients come into the salon looking to lighten their dark hair, blonding and balayage are great options for creating adding dimension and complimenting their skin tone. For a complete transformation, blonding can achieve a more classic, uniform blonde shade while balayage enhances your Asian client’s current color with highlights for a natural-looking, sun-kissed effect.
Here, several color experts from coast to coast share their favorite formulas and pro tips for creating some of the best blonde and balayage looks that Asian clients will love.
Photography: Courtesy of Min Kim (@minkimcolorist)
Look #1: Mocha Blonde
This gorgeous, rich color by L’Oréal Professionnel Global and US Ambassador Min Kim (@minkimcolorist) was done on virgin, natural level 4 hair.
Formula/Products Used:
- L’Oréal Professionnel Metal Detox Pre-Treatment Spray
- Balayage: L’Oréal Professionnel Blond Studio 9 Bonder Inside Powder, 20-Vol.
- Gloss: L’Oréal Professionnel Dia color 9.82, 9-Vol.
Step-By-Step:
Step 1: In the back, alternate V with horizontal sections working from nape to top using a two-point freehand application, leaving more depth in the middle of the head.
Step 2: For the front, do horizontal sections up to the part, paint fine single points on the hairline for control. Then, paint two-point pieces for the interior, working up to the top.
Pro Tip:
“Pay attention to where the back pieces are when finishing the top and sides to ensure there isn't too much lightness at the back of the head,” says Min.
Photography: Courtesy of Marie Nino (@mariedoescolor)
Look #2: Blonde Balayage
For this blonde balayage, NYC-based color expert Marie Nino (@mariedoescolor) focused on creating a champagne blonde with golden undertones—perfect for medium to warm skin tones. The blend of highlights with a soft root shadow keeps the look dimensional while ensuring natural, low-maintenance growth. “Balayage on Asian hair can be tricky because of the natural depth and underlying warmth,” says Nino. “The key is patience—lifting past the orange phase while maintaining the hair’s health.”
Formula/Products Used:
- Balayage: Wella Blondor Lightener with 20-Vol. Developer
- Toning: Redken Shades EQ Gloss in 9V, 9NB, and 9GB with the Shades EQ Processing Solution
- Styling: IGK Beach Club Touchable Texture Spray, Milbon Smooth Luminous Softening Oil, Innersense I Create Hold
Step-By-Step:
Step 1: For the first application, apply Wella Blondor Lightener with 20-volume developer in a balayage technique with foils to control lift and keep the lightener moist for even processing.
Step 2: For the tip-outs, switch to 25-volume developer since they are further away from the scalp and won’t benefit from natural heat. This method ensures those sections lift effectively while preventing over-processing at the mid-lengths. “Essentially, I treated this as two separate highlighting techniques in one session, allowing for maximum brightness while maintaining seamless blending,” says Nino.
Step 3: The key to achieving a soft, blended tip-out is grabbing the hair, teasing it at the ends, and weaving out medium to small sections depending on the hair’s density. This technique ensures a natural transition from the darker base to the lighter ends, avoiding any harsh lines of demarcation. Around the face frame, place highlights higher to create a sun-kissed, luminous effect.
Step 4: Once the desired lift is reached, apply a root shadow to soften the diffusion, helping the lighter pieces melt naturally into the base. For toning, use Redken Shades EQ Gloss in 9V, 9NB, and 9GB with the Shades EQ Processing Solution, leaving it on for 15 minutes to refine the blonde and maintain balance without over-cooling or dulling the tone.
Step 5: To finish the look, style the hair with IGK Beach Club Touchable Texture Spray for an effortless, voluminous, beachy feel. To maintain hydration and shine, use Milbon Smooth Luminous Softening Oil through the ends; and for clients with natural waves, Innersense I Create Hold helps enhance definition and control frizz.
Pro Tip:
“When it comes to maintenance, I always recommend using a clarifying shampoo every 30 days instead of purple shampoo to prevent unnecessary build-up,” says Nino. “Overusing purple shampoo can lead to over-toning, so a clarifying shampoo keeps the color fresh while allowing the toner to fade naturally. I also advise steering clear of protein-heavy products, as too much protein can make the hair feel brittle."
Instead, she recommends Milbon Repair Restorative Shampoo and Conditioner and Innersense Hydrating Hair Mask to maintain softness and strength. "This approach keeps the blonde looking natural, fresh, and luminous while ensuring long-term hair health.”
Photography: Courtesy of Bianca Hillier (@biancacolour)
Look #3: Desert Honey Blonde
Colorist Bianca Hillier (@biancacolour) created this stunning desert honey blonde look using her signature V-pattern technique, Maria Nila bleach, and Redken Shades EQ Gloss.
Formula/Products Used:
- Maria Nila Bleach:
- New growth and highlight formula: 30-Vol.
- Tips highlight formula: 20-Vol.
- Redken Shades EQ:
- Root: 8T
- Mids: 9T
- Tips: 1/2 10T + 1/2 10NW
Step-By-Step:
Step 1: Formulate a stronger formula to lighten her black new growth and a weaker formula for the tips. This way, the previously bleached hair does not break.
Section 2: Section from ear to ear, and paint my signature V-patterns with numerous skinny highlights at the root. Use a Framar tint brush for precision strokes. The bristles grip the lightener and allow for an easy painting application.
Step 3: Work up the head with horseshoe sections that allow for a ribboning flow while continuing to paint V-patterns on every section moving from nape to the crown. Between each section, use cellucotton 44041 to ensure there are no bleed marks on the underside of each subdivision.
Step 4: For the final layer on top, part hair to exactly where the hair will fall. Hairline is the last highlighted portion to prevent the finer strands from any damage.
Step 5: After painting is finished, wrap the head with Framar Saran Wrap and heat it up for a quicker processing time.
Step 6: Once the hair is lightened as desired, shampoo with Maria Nila Structure Repair Shampoo and towel dry to prep for toning.
Step 7: Use Redken Shades EQ to give a nice shadow root and melt it down with a lighter mid-shaft formula and an even lighter tips formula.
Step 8: Once the tones are perfected, rinse, shampoo and seal the deal with the Maria Nila Structure Repair Conditioner.
Pro Tip:
Be sure not to stir the chemicals with metal like a metal whisk. "I always use an old tint brush to stir the bleach to ensure a creamy smooth texture," says Hillier.
Next, discover trending bronde hair formulas and learn how to master the trend in this article: Redken Launches Color Gels Oils Uptown Bronde Collection.
